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Into Thin(ner) Air – On Route to the Cordillera Carabaya

June 20, 2011

This morning we left Arequipa and the comforts of the tourist trail, driving east across the puna towards the Andes proper. Our route took us along the newly constructed Caraterra Interoceanica – a highway linking the Pacific coast of Peru to ports in Brazil – and up to elevations of 4700 m. Along the way we passed the smoking Volcan Ubinas, Peru’s most active volcano, and the enormous inland sea of Lake Titicaca. As we approached the Cordillera Carabaya, which bounds the puna to the east, the clouds increased and the landscape changed dramatically, from desert to grassland.

El Misti rising above the puna, en route to Aricoma

In recent weeks, social unrest related to the opening of a gold mine near the city of Puno has resulted in violent protests. Though we were able to avoid Puno as we travelled east, this sort of anti-mining sentiment underlines the importance of obtaining the blessing of locals to carry out our research on their land.

By mid afternoon we arrived in the small town of Crucero, located at 4100 m beneath Laguna Aricoma – our first site. This town is, frankly, a bit grim, consisting of grey concrete houses and rubble streets, and located on a windswept plain below the mountains. Nonetheless, we’ll spend the night here in order to meet with the governor tomorrow. Fingers crossed that he will remember us and grant us permission once again to roam around. To end on a light note, the Cordillera Carabaya happens to be the alpaca centre of the universe, and so there is a high chance that one of these cute fluffy camelids will end up on our dinner plates tonight.


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